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Here is a
glossary of words used in the leather upholstery business.

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A typical whole hide. As can be seen, the
shape of the hide restricts the shapes of leather pieces that can
be cut out of it. A side is created by dividing the whole hide
vertically down the middle. |
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Aniline: Leather that is colored
all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by
immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent
and shows the natural markings of the leather, only the best quality
hides can be used. Antiqued:
Leather that is dyed with one color over another (usually darker
over lighter) so as to create rich highlights and an artificial aged
appearance. Also called distressed leather.
Buffed Leather: Leather from
which the top surface has been removed by abrasion. Often known as
suede or nubuc.
Corrected Grain: Leather that
has been buffed to remove blemishes, then covered with a new,
artificial grain created using pigments and other finishes. |
Crocking: Removing the crock, or
excess coloring, that rubs off of a newly-dyed hide.
Crust: Leather which has been tanned
(treated to become nonperishable) but not colored or otherwise finished.
Distressed: Another term for
antiqued leather.
Drum Dying: The process of coloring
leather by tumbling it in a rotating drum immersed in dye. A very
effective method allowing maximum dye penetration.
Embossed Leather: Leather that has
been "stamped" with a design or artificial texture under very high
pressure. Used, for example, to create imitation alligator hide.
Finish: Any enhancing effect applied
to leather after it has been tanned. Examples are dyeing, embossing,
buffing, antiquing, waxing, waterproofing, and so on.
Full Grain Leather: Leather which
has not been altered beyond hair removal. Full grain leather is the most
genuine type of leather, as it retains all of the original texture and
markings of the original hide.
Glazed Leather: Aniline-dyed leather
which has been polished to a high luster by passing through glass or steel
rollers under great pressure.
Glove Leather: Lambskin or other
very soft leather typically used for gloves.
Grain: A word used to describe the
natural characteristics of an unprocessed hide, such as its pores,
wrinkles, markings, and texture.
Hand: A word used to describe the
feel (i.e. softness or fullness) of leather, typically upholstery leather.
Nap: Describes the soft, "fuzzy"
effect achieved in leather by buffing or brushing.
Natural Grain: A leather that
displays its original grain.
Nubuc: A leather whose surface has
been buffed and brushed to create a soft, velvety effect. Differs from
suede in that while suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a
hide, nubuc is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added
strength and durability.
Oil Tanned: Leather that is tanned
using oils to create a very soft, pliable finish.
Patina: The aura or luster that
develops in a quality piece of leather with age.
Perforated: Leather in which a
pattern of small holes is stamped using a die.
Pigmented Leather: Leather that has
been coated with a flat surface color on top of or instead of the usual
dye finish. Leather is usually pigmented to add durability and hide
natural blemishes.
Plating: The process of pressing
leather under a heated plate. Often used in upholstery leather to mask
imperfections.
Pull-up: Describes the behavior of
leather that has been treated with oils, waxes, and dyes in such a way
that when the leather is pulled or stretched (i.e. on upholstery), the
finish becomes lighter in the stretched areas. Considered a mark of high
quality.
Retan: A second finish added over an
underlying tannage.
Sauvage: A coloring effect created
by blending two similar dyes to create a mottled or marbled appearance.
Semi-Aniline: Aniline leather to
which a matching pigment layer is added to even out the color and add
protection.
Side Leather: Leather made from one
half, or "side", of a full hide. Typically refers to leather whose top
grain (outermost layer) has been left intact.
Split Leather: Leather made from the
lower (inner or flesh side) layers of a hide that have been split away
from the upper, or grain, layers. Split leather is more fragile than side
leather or full-grain leather, and is typically used in the form of suede.
Suede: Split leather that has been
buffed and brushed to create a fuzzy surface feel.
Top Grain: Leather whose top
(outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather.
Two-tone: An effect created by
applying layers of similar or contrasting dyes to a piece of leather in
order to create a mottled or aged appearance. Antiqued and Sauvaged
leathers are examples of two-tone leathers.
Upholstery Leather: Leather created
from a whole hide and intended for use in furniture, automobiles,
airplanes, and other upholstery applications.
Vegetable Tanning: A method of hide
tanning which utilizes materials from organic materials such as bark
instead of the traditional chemicals. Vegetable tanned leather has greater
body and firmness than traditionally-tanned leather.
Weight: A term which describes the
heaviness or thickness of leather. Typically given in ounces per square
foot or millimeters (thickness).
Whole Hide: Refers to leather
created using a full hide, as opposed to a side, and typically intended
for use as upholstery leather.

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